8 New Game-Changing Anti-Agers, According to Dermatologists
We're keeping up with the skincare industry's latest breakthroughs to bring you the fountain of youth in a bottle—or at least your youngest, brightest, firmest skin.
Stem cells from snail eggs
As you get older, your skin cells lose their capacity to self-renew, so the ones that die don’t get replaced. While most anti-aging products work by boosting the efficacy of older cells, there’s a limit to how much old cells can act young. A new strategy is to let those old cells die off and instead promote the growth of brand-new skin cells. A cosmeceutical company called Biopelle has developed a line of stem cell products that use signaling proteins harvested from the eggs of snails (bear with us). This slimy fountain of youth helps cue latent stem cells to convert into new skin cells, which then help support the skin by increasing levels of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and epidermal thickness. Biopelle’s Tensage Stem Cell line uses this snail egg Cellpro™ Technology to help restore skin to its healthy, youthful, and natural condition. “The science behind these new stem cell products is so exciting,” says dermatologist Ruth E. Tedaldi, MD. “The possibilities inherent in snail egg extract represent a true revolution in skincare and skin rejuvenation.”
Colostrum is the pre-milk that comes in during the first 24 to 72 hours after mammals give birth. Before you get too queasy, the colostrum in Immupure is not from humans but from cows (free-range, steroid-free, and hormone-free), and their baby calves do get first dibs. With that out of the way, let’s talk about the amazing powers of colostrum. Just as it helps newborn babies build immunity and strength, Immupure products help skin cells thrive: They increase cell rejuvenation and offer optimal nutrition, including powerful immune-boosting compounds, to skin cells. The result is firmer skin, smoother wrinkles, restored connective tissue, and youthful radiance. Immupure products are cold-sterilized for safety, but in a way that preserves their skin-friendly proteins, amino acids, growth factors, hormones, enzymes, peptides, and nucleotides.
Non-irritating, pro-grade retinoid
As an amazing facialist once said so eloquently, “if an anti-aging product doesn’t have retinol, it’s BS.” It’s true that retinoids are the gold standard of anti-aging ingredients, but they’re known to cause irritation, redness, and peeling, which can turn people off of using them. Enter the skincare company Dermarché, which has invented a brand-new way to deliver powerful doses of a retinoid without the uncomfortable side effects. Their new p.m. serum, BioRewind PM, has their proprietary molecule—a combo of a retinoid with lactic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid that helps increase cell turnover and gently exfoliates. This miracle of chemistry forms a pro-grade retinoid that evens skin tone, softens lines, restores glow, and clarifies pores. Use it with the BioRewind AM, a full-spectrum antioxidant serum that prevents further cell damage and brightens the complexion. (Here’s what dermatologists do to look younger overnight.)
Concentrated, reparative lipids
Aging skin is drier skin, because it’s more likely to lose the natural fats (lipids) that keep skin hydrated and plump-looking. Losing those fats weakens the skin’s natural, protective barrier, which leads to accelerated signs of aging—hello wrinkles and crepey texture. To shore up the protective barrier and stem the tide of fat loss, skin needs to have those fats replaced—but here’s the tricky part: To be effective, the formula has to exactly mimic the chemical make-up of the body’s own lipids—or it throws the delicate balance of those fats out of whack. SkinCeuticals has created Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 with a ratio of reparative lipids that mirrors our skin’s own natural fats. This feat enables the formula to help restore skin’s protective barrier, support the body’s natural repair function, and potently nourish aging skin. The results are smoother skin, improved pore appearance, and general radiance.
Matrikines (aka “micro-proteins”) act as “first responders” to help renew damaged skin. According to research, some matrikines promote the formation of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, which are essential to healthy, young-looking skin. With this in mind, the physician-dispensed skincare brand NeoCutis used new technology to formulate MPC™ (Micro Protein Complex), an anti-aging ingredient that delivers matrikine-like benefits. MPC offers a breakthrough alternative to help defend against the signs of aging skin, in particular the problems of skin elasticity and firmness. “Great anti-aging skincare relies on promoting new collagen and elastin,” says Ulysses H. Scarpidis, MD, a NYC-based board-certified plastic surgeon. “But since collagen and elastin are giant proteins found in the deeper layers of the skin, applying collagen on the surface of the skin, where the cells are dead, doesn’t really help.” The trick, he says, is to get these giant proteins to penetrate deeper. “NeoCutis has ingeniously achieved this with its MPC line,” Scarpidis says. “It’s like they’re using small Lego pieces that can seep through the superficial layers of the skin, and then regroup in the deep layers to rebuild the giant Lego castles where they’re needed most.”
Heparan Sulfate (HSA)
You may not have heard of the brand SENTÉ yet, but you will. This exciting skincare line has a unique new ingredient: Heparan Sulfate (HSA). “In the body, HSA is involved in signaling pathways between cells—regulating growth factors, collagen adhesion, neovascularization or new blood vessels, and even anticoagulation among many biochemical processes,” says David Shafer, MD, a NYC-based plastic surgeon. “When applied topically, HSA boosts rejuvenation and skin hydration likely through its effect on collagen, growth factors, and blood flow.” The results of SENTÉ’s HSA-formulated serums are firmer and smoother skin, improved strength and elasticity, and the fading of fine lines.
Amino acids and plant sugars
As we age, our skin naturally loses much of its moisture-retaining ability. The cosmeceutical brand Glytone has addressed this problem with their new Hydration Intensifying Serum. This lightweight layering serum targets the skin’s water and lipid content by combining amino acids, which provide immediate moisture and calm skin, and plant sugars, which help to prevent trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and replenish skin’s natural fats. The combo of these two active ingredients helps boost skin’s hydration and, most important, restore its natural barrier, so it can perform the way young, healthy skin should. You’re basically giving skin the raw materials it needs to do its job. Glytone can be used on all skin types for a healthy, supple, vibrant complexion.
Obviously algae is not some high-tech ingredient—because you can find it fishtanks across America, but the way it’s now being used is revolutionary. The French company Avène has recently unveiled PhysioLift products, which are formulated with Ascofilline, molecules derived from sulfated fucans (moisturizing agents) found in brown algae. The magic of this particular moisturizing agent is its low molecular weight and remarkable collagen-replenishing powers. It acts like a beauty architect, strengthening the structure of skin.